Today is my friend Gisele’s birthday. She’s French, was born in Lyon, but moved to Paris in high school to become a first-class photographer, and now lives in a small French village called Sardy, where she still photographs and runs an art store and gets government grants to continue her own work.
She turns 53 today.
I am 85 and will turn 86 in June.
But when we first met, Gigi was 31 and I was 63. We met in Paris. But we had communicated by email before that. I had attended a photography show in New Haven and the person who was showing the photos said I might be interested in the work of her friend, Gisele Didi. I checked her out, did like her work, got in touch with her, and we agreed to meet in Paris in September of 2001.
But then 9/11 happened and the skies went empty. So I had to wait a couple of weeks before I was allowed to fly to Paris. But when I did and we met, the relationship was like a merging of spirits and a marriage of personalities. Age did not matter. We took to each other instantly.
And so for the next four years, I traveled to Paris 16 times, staying each time for two to three weeks in the same room in the same small hotel around the Place de Bastille. It was through Gigi that I got to know Paris intimately and grew to love the city and at one point considered moving there. But in the end, my French never was good enough for me to live there permanently.
And Gisele came to New Haven three times and got to know my city and the coastline and the sea. But we each preferred our own home-grown countries.
And our lives evolved separately and together. She married a Ukrainian and had a son by him. She would bring baby Yanko to my room and the three of us would sit on the floor and Yanko would make baby noises and crawl around. Now he is 17 and about to graduate from high school and hopes to go on to study at a film school.
I began writing my blog on a French site at that time and kept at it daily from 2002 to 2010. But then the site starting having technical problems and I grew fed up with it and ended my connection to it in June 2010.
My good American friend, Robert, built me my current site, which I switched to the same month in 2010 and have maintained it more or less weekly ever since.
Robert, by the way, has left New Haven and moved permanently, with his wonderful dog, Sonny, to Spain. So my two close friends — Gisele and Robert — are now far out of sight and I will probably never see them again. It is one of the painful consequences of time and of growing too old to want to travel to distant foreign countries.
Gisele eventually divorced the Ukrainian and a few years later married a very talented French photographer and after awhile they left Paris and moved into the country and built a house for themselves and Yanko and a dog and a cat and a couple of chickens.
But then they divorced but remained friends and still live near each other. The dog, Luz, remained with Thierry.
And so here we are — all these many years and thousands of miles later. I have pretty much stayed put. I am a kind of stay-put kind of person. My drama is always interior more than geographical.
But in staying put, I have found myself marooned in time. I am growing older to the point of genuine old age. But I am also feeling slightly out-of-sync, as if my timing doesn’t feel quite in step with everyone else’s around me.
My memory for names is withering. My respect for contemporary American life, as it is currently expressing itself, has bottomed out. I feel a stranger in this strange land. I feel more and more distant from America than I ever did from Paris during those golden years with Gisele.
Meanwhile, she is 53 now and I am 85. And I am still having trouble figuring out how that happened.
When did I lose the rhythm? When did I stop believing that tomorrow would be brand new?
When did the neighborhood dogs take over my affection for life?