I have the same lunch everyday: peanut butter spread on a large piece of good bread. For years, I ate peanut butter called “Once Again,” which I bought in health food stores. But for the past couple of months, I’ve re-discovered the delicious taste and texture of the Teddi brand, which I buy in supermarkets.
As for the bread, I have switched to another supermarket brand of multigrain Panini. The combination of bread and peanut butter is delicious and healthy and easily concocted, and I eat it daily, not just out of habit or routine but out of simple pleasure.
I will often add to the coating of peanut butter a layer of fresh honey made by bees working two towns away.
On rare occasions, instead of honey, I will add a layer of strawberry jam from Italy. And it is on those strawberry days that my peanut butter mood will turn a little more complicated, a little more poignant.
The reason for that shift can be summed up in two simple words: “jelly bread.”
“Jelly bread” was what the mother of former New York Times columnist, Russell Baker, offered him in compensation for an especially sad day, when he was just five years old. His father had just died and his mother had just given away his sister Audrey.
Baker and his parents and his sisters, Audrey and Doris, grew up in a small, poor town in Virginia. They were almost dirt poor. Little money, skimpy food, hard times day to day. The mother was strong and out-spoken, while the father was good and sensitive but weak and drank too much. He worked as a stone mason and could just barely make ends meet. The children loved him. His wife was continually disappointed by him. And they all clung to their poor rural life by their fingertips.
But then the father got diabetes, which went untreated. And it got worse as the years went by until one day he was taken to the hospital. The children were sure it was just for a short time. They waited for him to return home. But after a couple of days, he died and that was the end of that. He was just 33.
Russell was heart broken. “He is not dead,” he kept shouting, as he ran up the road towards home. “He is not dead; he is not dead.” But then the reality took hold and his five-year-old broken heart had to accept the fact.
The family was immediately plunged into deep, inescapable debt. No money coming in and no prospects. Three young children and a mother without a way to earn sufficient income. They had to give up their home and move in with one of the mother’s younger brothers in New Jersey. They had to give up what little they had and leave the state and move north.
But there was always the business of the children. Russell was five and his sister Doris was just a year younger. But Audrey was merely 10 months old, and bringing her along to New Jersey to move in with the mother’s brother and his family seemed too heavy a burden on everyone.
And so Russell’s mother gave Audrey away to Russell’s uncle Tom and aunt Goldie, who had always wanted a child but were unable to have one of their own.
He wrote about it in his wonderful autobiography, “Growing Up.”
“A few days later,” he wrote, “Uncle Tom and Aunt Goldie arrived in Morrisonville again. My mother helped them carry out the crib and the boxes packed with baby clothes. When the car was loaded, my mother bundled Audrey into blankets, carried her outside, handed her to Aunt Goldie, and kissed her good-bye.
“When their car was out of sight I went back into the house. My mother was sitting in the straight-backed oak rocker, the fanciest piece of furniture we owned, staring at the stove.
“ ‘When’s Audrey coming back, Mama?’
“She didn’t answer. Just sat staring at the stove and rocking for the longest while. I went back out into the road, but she came out right behind me and touched my shoulder.
“ ‘Do you want me to fix you a piece of jelly bread?’ she asked.”
On those days when I add a little strawberry jam to my usual peanut butter sandwich, the thought of Russell Baker’s ‘jelly bread’ often comes to mind. And I find the combination a little harder than usual to dismiss as simply ‘lunch.’